Second Hand Fabrics
May 30, 2012
Oh, Nicola is now, speaking my language: second hand stores. I openly admit as a true artist that I have rescued items with a bit of dumpster diving, which ended up being excessively valuable. When I first time visit a town I do not head for the tourist attractions but I scan the environment for junk stores. I found a little fabric store many years ago, along the side of the road not unlike a fruit stand. It was near a quaint town population just under 200. The store was crammed pack with 100% natural fabrics that were end roll or bolt ends. I found delicate cottons, silks alongside heavy-duty sailcloth. Oh, I had so much fun dying those fabrics and I still have a few left in my stash. Sadly, the store was torn down in lieu for a convenience store.
I read an article in the NY Times that the cotton industry has discovered a way to intermingled nano Millimeter ( I forget the actual weight but it was microscopic) of synthetic to reduce shrinkage, yet the amount is so small it is still legally label it 100% cotton. This explains why newer items such as tee shirts and linens will not dye properly with procion dyes. Yes, I have taught classes on beach towel dyeing using a kiddie swimming pool. Have you ever wondered by some 100% cotton tee-shirt seems to be hot or slightly itchy? This small percentage of non-natural fiber keeps the fiber from “breathing”, or allowing the air to freely flow through the garment.
The only true test is doing a burn test, which I found this one of the most useful tools I learned at art school. For a final test in this class, I was presented a pile of samples and required to identify the contents by burning them. A small sliver is fibers, held of course with tweezers or tongs, set a flame with a match, various fibers will have a different burn rate, odor, and a distinctive ash or rubbish result. I have worked with textiles for over forty years and yet garments or unmarked fabrics have deceived me especially some with the distinct feel of silk, when tested will burn into a hard uncrushable black ball and smell foreign. Silk will scent of burned hair and crush into ashes. Plant fibers have the odor of paper burning while all animal protein: wool, silk, leather have the smell of when you get too close to an open flame and your eyelashes get singed, the stench of burning hair. It is a fascinating, to me after I wrote this, I discovered there are several web sites with the various test results.